Salt Pans, Baobabs and Delta Wilderness
A classic Botswana overland route through open pans, ancient baobabs, remote campsites and the waterways of the Okavango Delta.
This journey begins at Voetspore 4×4 Rentals in Pretoria, where travellers collect their vehicle, complete the necessary paperwork, and receive a full handover of the vehicle and camping equipment. Before departure, it is worth stocking up on dry goods. Meat and fresh vegetables cannot be taken across the Botswana border, so only buy what is needed for the first night and keep the rest of the supplies simple.
The first overnight stop is Moriti Bush Camp, situated along the Limpopo River, just a short distance from the border. The drive from Pretoria takes around six hours and is tarred all the way. Seringa Café in Vaalwater is a good place to stop for refreshments, while Dzombo Fuels further north is another practical rest stop. Moriti Bush Camp is well maintained, with private ablutions, braai facilities and a relaxed setting that makes it an ideal first night before crossing into Botswana.
From Moriti, cross into Botswana at Martin’s Drift Border Post. It is best to arrive early, as the queues can become long. Once across the border, continue to Palapye to refuel and replenish supplies. Food Lover’s Market Palapye and Spar Palapye are both useful stops, although stock can be limited, so it may be necessary to visit both. There are also quick meal options such as Wimpy Palapye, Nando’s Palapye and Steers Palapye.
From Palapye, the route continues towards Kubu Island Campsite. Travellers must first check in at the Kubu Island Campsite office before continuing on dirt roads towards the pans. The first sight of the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans is unforgettable. The landscape is vast, open and unlike almost anything else in Southern Africa.
Kubu Island is one of Botswana’s most iconic wild camping destinations. Campsites are set around the island, often beneath ancient baobab trees. Facilities are very basic, with no running water and long drop toilets only. During the rainy season, the pans can fill with water, creating mirror-like reflections and dramatic storm skies. This is a special time to visit, but travellers should be prepared for heavy mosquito activity.
A full day at Kubu Island is highly recommended. It allows time to explore the island, drive along the edge of the pans and enjoy the silence of one of Botswana’s most unusual landscapes. Sunsets here are exceptional, especially after summer storms have cleared.
From Kubu Island, continue towards Baines’ Baobabs. The route returns to dirt roads and should be driven slowly, as the drive itself becomes part of the game viewing experience. Elephant sightings are possible even along the main road, while the tracks into the area offer a true sense of wilderness. The campsites at Baines’ Baobabs are set among enormous baobab trees. Facilities are simple, with a toilet and bucket shower, but no running water. In the rainy season, the baobabs are green and full, and storms over the pans can produce spectacular sunsets.
The next stop is Nxai South Camp, only one to two hours from Baines’ Baobabs, depending on road conditions and time spent game viewing. The route includes deep sandy two-track sections, so travellers should take it slowly and enjoy the drive. Nxai South offers shaded campsites and a shared ablution block with hot showers and flush toilets. Wildlife frequently moves through the area, and elephant may pass close to camp. A late afternoon game drive to the main waterhole is recommended, with good chances of seeing plains game, birds and smaller species such as bat-eared fox.
From Nxai South, leave early for Maun. This is the main supply stop before entering Moremi National Park. Maun has fuel, shops and restaurants, with The Duck Café being a useful stop for a meal, coffee and Wi-Fi. Woolworths and Spar are good options for final supplies, although stock levels can vary.
From Maun, continue to Xakanaxa in Moremi National Park. The road into the park is beautiful but rough, and conditions can become more difficult during the rainy season. Xakanaxa Campsite is set along the waterways of the Okavango Delta and offers shaded campsites, ablution blocks, hot showers and running water. Boat trips can also be arranged nearby.
A stay of three nights at Xakanaxa is ideal. This allows enough time for morning and afternoon game drives, as well as time in camp during the heat of the day. Wildlife in the area is excellent, with regular sightings of lechwe, elephant, lion and leopard. Birdlife is also exceptional, with species such as purple rollers, coppery-tailed coucals, crested barbets and southern carmine bee-eaters often seen around camp.
A sunset boat cruise through the delta is strongly recommended. This offers a completely different perspective of Moremi, with the opportunity to see hippos, waterbirds and the channels that make the Okavango one of Africa’s most remarkable wilderness areas.
From Moremi, begin the journey south with an overnight stop at Camelthorn Farmstead on the Boteti River. This campsite borders Makgadikgadi Pans National Park and offers spacious sites with clean, modern ablution facilities, hot showers and flush toilets. The viewing hide overlooking the park is a highlight. It is an excellent place for sundowners, with the chance of seeing elephant and other wildlife moving through the area below.
Continue south to Khama Rhino Sanctuary. The sanctuary is an easy and rewarding final Botswana stop, with a small restaurant, relaxed game drives and several bird hides. The campsite is set among thick bush, with large trees and practical braai areas. It is a fitting final night under the Botswana sky before returning to South Africa.
The route back to Voetspore can be completed via Stockpoort Border Post. After several days of salt pans, baobabs, delta channels, elephants, lions and open campsites, this journey offers a compact but deeply rewarding Botswana overland experience.
It is a route that combines comfortable first and last nights with some truly wild camping in between. Proper preparation is essential, especially for border crossings, remote campsites, water, fuel and seasonal road conditions. For travellers wanting a real taste of Botswana without rushing straight to the obvious tourist routes, this is an excellent adventure.
Follow the journey
This Botswana route was brought to life through Alie and Luke’s overland journey with Voetspore 4×4 Rentals, travelling through salt pans, baobab forests, remote campsites and the waterways of the Okavango Delta.
For more behind-the-scenes moments, campsite views, wildlife encounters and future African adventures, follow them on Instagram:
Follow Alie in Africa
Follow Luke Rauby
Their journey offers a closer look at the places, people and landscapes that make this route so memorable, from the silence of Kubu Island and the baobabs of Nxai Pan to the wildlife-rich channels of Moremi and the long road back through Botswana.
