Where Africa still feels untouched.
Western Zambia is often low on the list for safari goers in Southern Africa. It shouldn’t be, as this offers an excellent safari experience, away from the maddening crowds. More often you and your company will be the only people in the campsites. This is the Land of the Lozi, arguably the friendliest, kindest people on the continent
Entering Zambia can be one of the more complex border processes in Africa, which deters many visitors. However, with proper preparation and the correct paperwork, the process is manageable and far less intimidating than expected. Assistance and guidance can be obtained from Voetspore 4×4 Rentals before departure.
The journey begins at Livingstone, where several campsites are located along the banks of the Zambezi River. The Livingstone side of Victoria Falls is far less crowded than the Zimbabwean side, yet still offers excellent access to the world’s largest waterfall. Activities such as bungee jumping and helicopter flights are readily available, and a stay of two to three days is sufficient.
From Livingstone, travel north on the T1 towards Lusaka for approximately 130 km before turning left at Kalomo towards Kafue National Park. Continue to New Kalala Campsite on the shores of Lake Itezhi Tezhi. This section is around 200 km and requires an early departure. Road conditions are fair.
From Itezhi Tezhi, continue to Roy’s Kafue Camp. The one option is the road past the dam wall, towards the M9. The first section is ‘n terrible condition. Thereafter it is tar. Alternatively, travelling through Kafue National Park offers excellent wildlife viewing but requires payment of park entrance fees. A minimum stay of two nights at Roy’s Camp is recommended.
As an option: After Roy’s Camp, more adventurous travellers may consider heading north to the Busanga Plains. Wildlife viewing is exceptional, birdlife is prolific, and the sense of isolation is profound. This area is not open year round, the terrain can be challenging, and facilities are limited, but those who venture there are never disappointed.
From Roy’s Camp, travel west on the M9. After 140 km turn right, direction Lukulu, for one of Africa’s worst gravel roads. Continue for 180 km along this road to Lukulu, where you’ll find the Catholic Mission, where visitors are always welcome to set up camp. There is no fixed fee, but a small donation is appreciated, and access to basic facilities may be granted.
After crossing the Zambezi River by ferry, continue towards Liuwa Plains National Park. This is one of the quintessential African experiences. The drive to the Park will take between 4 and 5 hours. Note: entering Liuwa Plans National Park from the east (on this route) is not the rule, but the exception. It is therefore essential to make a booking at one of the community campsites in the park beforehand and inform management that you will enter from the east. Accurate GPS navigation using Tracks4Africa maps is essential, as numerous sand tracks lead into the park.
Liuwa Plains is one of Africa’s oldest protected areas and was once the hunting ground of the Lozi king. Today, it is managed by African Parks and remains one of the few reserves where local communities live within the park boundaries. A stay of four to five days allows for morning and afternoon game drives and the opportunity to witness large herds of wildebeest migrate across the plains.
Exit the Park at Kalabo, after visiting the Head Office and then negotiate a challenging sand track. Drive 75 km to Mongo, once more crossing the Zambezi. This town is excellent for replenishing supplies at the Shoprite. From here, travel south to Ngonye River Camp or Whispering Sands, both located on the banks of the Zambezi.
Visit the Sioma Ngonye Falls early in the morning. Access from the western bank is easier, while the eastern bank offers dramatic views of the horseshoe shaped falls. From the falls, continue south for 65 km to Kabula Lodge and Campsite, an unspoiled riverside camp where tiger fishing can also be arranged. A stay of at least two nights is recommended.
From Kabula Lodge, cross into Namibia at Katima Mulilo, then continue to the Botswana border at Ngoma and onward to Kasane. This route of around 200 km should take all day, as it implies two border crossings. Kasane offers several good camping options, as well as one of Africa’s finest game viewing boat cruises on the Chobe River.
On the return to South Africa, Elephant Sands (255 km south from Kasane) is an ideal overnight stop, offering an up close encounter with wild elephants. After crossing back into South Africa at Martins Drift or Groblersbrug, be sure to stay one last night at Moriti Bush Camp, one of the best-maintained campsites in Southern Africa.
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